Spinach with chickpeas has been one of Seville’s specialties for centuries. Some of the city’s eateries have become famous for it, and the best ‘espinacas con garbanzos’, prepared with cumin, pimentón (paprika) and garlic, are eaten there. Top of the list is bar Giralda, a cozy tapas bar in the street Mateos Gago, near the cathedral. Recently, the building has been thoroughly renovated and during the work, the builders discovered to their great surprise a medieval “hamán”; an Arab bathhouse. Research showed that the hamán had been part of houses at the same location for centuries, but it had been hidden behind walls, a double ceiling and stucco during a renovation in 1928.
According to the well-known Spanish archaeologist Fernando Amores, it is a unique discovery. Beautiful geometric murals have been found covering both the walls and the dome. Furthermore, 88 light windows have been uncovered in the vault with 5 different shapes (stars, octagons, etc.). Never before have such rich decorations been found in baths.
The building dates from the 12th century and at that time Seville was the capital of a large Islamic empire. The main mosque stood on the site where the cathedral now stands, and many Muslims visited the nearby bath, after which they would go to the mosque cleansed and ready to pray towards the Mihrab, the prayer niche that marked the location of Mecca.
The hamman is currently being restored and will remain a bar in the future. Emiliano Sánchez , the chef who has been working there since 1984, continues to hold sway in the kitchen. It is a must to try the spinach with chickpeas at this very spot. It might get very busy in the former baths, but that´s not a problem, because during the tour I will show you other places where you can go for delicious local specialties.
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